Selecting the correct surfboard is critical to progressing in surfing and enjoying each session. In this guide, T&C Surf’s Deon interviews master shaper Glenn Pang, who has four decades of design experience on Hawai‘i’s North Shore. Glenn breaks down:
The two most common buying errors—overestimating skill and choosing a board that is too small.
Essential versus low-priority board features: volume, rocker, outline, tail shape and construction.
How your current fitness and paddling strength affect board choice.
Practical board “road maps” for three typical surfers: complete beginner, progressing intermediate and performance-minded rider.
When to buy polyurethane (PU) versus EPS, and how to size your fins.
Watch the full discussion to learn a clear, step-by-step process for matching your ability, local wave conditions and budget to the surfboard you actually need—so you spend less time struggling and more time catching waves and improving.
Exploring Costa Rica: A Surf Adventure at Playa Hermosa
Join me on an unforgettable journey to Costa Rica, where we dive into the surfing scene at Playa Hermosa. In this blog, we will explore the beach’s features, local accommodations, and what to expect when hitting the waves.
The Journey Begins
Our adventure starts with a bus ride from Fontalenas to Jaco. The excitement builds as we anticipate our arrival at Playa Hermosa. The journey is filled with laughter and the occasional struggle of carrying our surfboards through the bustling town.
Arriving at Playa Hermosa
Finally, we made it to Playa Hermosa! The first sight of this stunning beach, with its black sand and rolling waves, takes our breath away. However, our excitement is met with a small hiccup: the hostel is closed, and we are left wondering about our next steps.
Costa Rica is a paradise for surfers and nature lovers alike. The vibrant culture, friendly locals, and stunning landscapes make every moment special. From the lush greenery to the sound of the waves crashing, it’s a sensory overload in the best way.
As we settle in, we check out the surf conditions. Unfortunately, the waves are small, but we remain hopeful for a bump in swell. The beach is quiet, with only a few surfers out, giving us a chance to familiarize ourselves with the area.
After a quick coffee, it’s time to hit the waves. The anticipation builds as we prepare our boards. Even with the small surf, there’s nothing like the thrill of paddling out into the ocean.
The surf session begins, and it’s a mix of closeouts and small waves. While it’s not the epic surf we hoped for, we embrace the challenge. Each wave offers a new experience, and we learn to adapt our skills to the conditions.
As we ride the small waves, we realize that every experience in Costa Rica adds to our skills. Surfing here is unique; the waves break quickly over the sandbar, making it tricky but exciting. We laugh and cheer each other on, making the best of the situation.
After an hour and a half in the water, we come back to shore, energized yet exhausted. The waves may have been small, but the joy of surfing in such a beautiful location is unmatched. We share stories of our rides and plan for the next session, hoping for better conditions.
The vibe at Playa Hermosa is laid-back, perfect for unwinding after a surf day. We explore the beach, enjoying the black sand and the sound of the waves. As the sun sets, we grab a drink at a local beach bar, soaking in the atmosphere.
Despite the small waves, our trip to Costa Rica has been filled with memorable moments. From the bus rides to the surf sessions, every experience is a testament to the beauty of this country. We can’t wait to see what the next day brings!
Stay tuned as we continue our journey through Costa Rica. The adventure is just beginning, and we have more waves to catch and stories to share!
Understanding Surf Conditions
Surf conditions can vary greatly, and understanding them is key to having a great time in Costa Rica. At Playa Hermosa, we quickly learned that the waves can change from day to day. Factors such as wind direction, swell size, and tide all play crucial roles.
Small Waves, Big Adventures
During our stay, we encountered mostly small waves. While it was disappointing at first, we adapted our surfing style to make the most of every opportunity. The closeouts offered a unique challenge, pushing us to refine our skills.
Waiting for the Perfect Swell
Patience is essential for surfers. We spent time watching the ocean, waiting for that perfect swell to arrive. Each day was a mix of anticipation and excitement, as we hoped for better surf conditions.
Traveling to Playa Hermosa is an adventure in itself. The most common route is to take a bus to Jaco, then a short taxi or local bus ride to the beach. This journey offers stunning views of Costa Rica’s landscapes.
Transportation Tips
Check bus schedules ahead of time.
Keep small change for local buses.
Consider renting a bike for local exploration.
Accommodation Options
Finding the right place to stay can enhance your surfing experience. Playa Hermosa offers various accommodations, from hostels to upscale hotels. We opted for a cozy spot called Sunny’s Hostel, which provided a budget-friendly option with a great café.
Where to Stay
Sunny’s Hostel: Affordable, friendly atmosphere, close to the beach.
Luxury Resorts: For those seeking comfort and amenities.
Vacation Rentals: Great for groups or families.
The Vibe at Playa Hermosa
The vibe at Playa Hermosa is relaxed and welcoming. It’s a place where surfers can unwind after a day on the waves. The local bars and restaurants often have live music, creating a lively atmosphere.
The local community is friendly and eager to share their love for surfing and Costa Rica. Engaging with the locals can enhance your experience, from learning about the best surf spots to enjoying authentic Costa Rican cuisine.
Conclusion and Future Adventures
Our time at Playa Hermosa has been unforgettable, filled with laughter, learning, and the thrill of the ocean. Despite the small waves, we’ve made the most of every moment. Costa Rica has a unique charm that keeps us coming back for more.
As we look ahead, we can’t wait for our next adventure in Santa Teresa. The promise of new waves and experiences awaits us. Stay tuned for more stories from our travels!
Costa Rica is one of the best surf destinations in the world. With warm water, beautiful beaches, and waves for all levels, it’s a great place to surf and relax. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced surfer, Costa Rica has something for everyone.
The best time to surf in Costa Rica is generally between April and October. This is when the south swells come in, making for great waves. However, you can find fun waves year-round!
Getting There
Most travelers fly into San Jose. From there, you can take shuttle buses or rent a car to get to the surf spots. Buses are a budget-friendly option and are quite reliable.
Accommodation Options
Costa Rica has a variety of places to stay, from hostels to hotels. Here’s a quick overview:
Costa Rica is an amazing place to surf and explore. With its beautiful beaches and friendly locals, you’re sure to have an unforgettable experience. So grab your surfboard and get ready for an adventure!
Jaws, also known as Peʻahi, is a legendary big wave surfing spot located on the North Shore of Maui, Hawaii. It’s famous for producing some of the largest waves in the world, often reaching heights of 30 to 80 feet. This surf spot is not for everyone; it’s reserved for the most experienced and skilled surfers due to its immense power, size, and the dangers associated with its massive waves.The underwater topography of Peʻahi plays a crucial role in the formation of its massive waves.
The bottom at Peʻahi is primarily a reef composed of rock and coral. This reef structure is a key factor in the wave formation at Jaws. As ocean swells travel towards the shore, the decreasing depth of the ocean floor causes the waves to rise in height and steepness. At Peʻahi, the unique shape and composition of the reef bottom act as a ramp that lifts and shapes the incoming swells into the towering waves that surfers ride.
This rocky and uneven reef bottom is instrumental in the creation of the large, powerful, and often very dangerous waves that make Jaws famous. The waves here can reach heights of up to 60 feet (18 meters) or more, making it a destination for experienced and professional big wave surfers from around the world. The combination of the size, power, and shape of the waves, influenced by the reef’s topography, results in a challenging and exhilarating surfing experience.
Jaws, also known as Peʻahi, is a legendary big wave surfing spot located on the North Shore of Maui, Hawaii. It’s famous for producing some of the largest and most challenging waves in the world, often reaching heights of 30 to 80 feet. This surf spot is not for everyone; it’s reserved for the most experienced and skilled surfers due to its immense power, size, and the dangers associated with its massive waves.
Who Can Surf at Jaws?
Jaws is strictly for highly experienced big wave surfers. The combination of the wave’s size, power, and the technical skill required to navigate it, along with the inherent risks, make it unsuitable for casual or intermediate surfers. It’s a place where the elite of the surfing world come to test their limits against some of the most powerful waves on the planet.
Evolution of Surfing at Jaws
Early Discovery (1970s): Jaws was named by surfers John Lemus, John Potterick, and John Roberson in 1975 after the blockbuster movie “Jaws.” They were among the first to surf its waves, initially riding smaller swells.
Windsurfing Era (1980s): Surfers like Dave Kalama, Mark Pedersen, and Brett Lickle ventured into the waters of Jaws with their windsurfing kits, exploring its potential for windsurfing.
Tow-In Surfing Revolution (1990s): The spot gained worldwide fame when Laird Hamilton, Darrick Doerner, Buzzy Kerbox, and others in the “Strapped Crew” pioneered tow-in surfing here. This method, involving jet skis to tow surfers into waves, made it possible to catch the monstrously large waves at Jaws, which were impossible to paddle into due to their size and speed.
Paddle-In Surfing Resurgence (21st Century): In recent years, there has been a shift back to paddle-in surfing at Jaws. This transition was marked by feats like South African Chris Bertish paddling into a Jaws wave using arm power only.
Notable Surfers and Their Experiences
Laird Hamilton: A pioneer at Jaws, Hamilton was instrumental in developing tow-in surfing here. His fearless approach set a new standard for big wave surfing.
Keala Kennelly, Paige Alms, Andrea Moller: These women are among the most experienced surfers tackling Peahi. Their participation underscores that Jaws is not just a domain for male surfers but a challenge for any top-level big wave surfer.
Gary Linden & Landon McNamara: Older and younger surfers alike have braved these waves, showing the wide appeal and challenge it offers to different generations.
The Wave Itself
Right-Hand Barreling Wave: Jaws predominantly offers a right-hand break, ideal during northern swells and southeasterly winds. On rare occasions, it provides left-hand rides.
Unpredictability: The wave at Jaws is notorious for its unpredictability. What appears to be a perfect formation can quickly transform into a dangerous closeout.
Hazards: Strong offshore winds, choppy conditions, and the risk of being caught inside make Jaws a perilous spot. The underwater geography, with its deep-water reef, adds to the danger.
Cultural and Historical Context
Local Hawaiian Culture: The name “Pe’ahi” honors the local culture, and Leslie Kuloloio noted the traditional Hawaiian name for the break as Ke Kai ‘o Waitakulu (“The Teary Eye”).
Film and Media: Jaws has been featured in various films and documentaries, further cementing its legendary status in the surfing world.
Remarkable Surfers at Jaws
Kai Lenny: Known for his versatility, Lenny has tackled Jaws using various forms of surfing, including traditional paddle-in surfing, tow-in surfing, windsurfing, and even kitesurfing. His innovative approach and ability to handle massive waves have placed him among the legends of Jaws.
Laird Hamilton: A pioneer in the big wave surfing community, Hamilton was one of the first to explore the potential of Jaws. He was instrumental in popularizing tow-in surfing at Jaws, enabling surfers to ride the gigantic waves that were previously thought to be unsurfable.
Albee Layer: Known for his progressive approach and aerial maneuvers, Layer has pushed the limits of what’s possible in big wave surfing at Jaws. He’s also one of the few surfers to successfully complete a 540-degree spin on a big wave.
Shane Dorian: A big wave legend, Dorian has been at the forefront of pushing the boundaries at Jaws. His performances, especially in paddle-in surfing, have been pivotal in the evolution of the sport.
Billy Kemper: A four-time winner of the Pe’ahi Challenge, Kemper’s intimate knowledge of Jaws and his fearless approach have earned him a reputation as one of the best big wave surfers in the world.
Paige Alms: As one of the leading female big wave surfers, Alms has made a name for herself with her performances at Jaws. She’s a multiple-time winner of the Women’s Pe’ahi Challenge, showcasing her skill and bravery in tackling the massive waves.
Greg Long: An accomplished big wave surfer, Long is known for his calculated and technical approach to surfing Jaws. He’s respected for his deep understanding of ocean dynamics and wave forecasting.
Ian Walsh: Walsh has been a standout performer at Jaws, known for his fearless approach and deep barrel riding skills. He’s also a local to Maui, giving him a unique understanding of the wave.
Grant Baker: The South African surfer, also known as “Twiggy,” is known for his big wave prowess worldwide, including at Jaws. His experience and skill in heavy water conditions make him a formidable presence in the lineup.
Keala Kennelly: A trailblazer in women’s big wave surfing, Kennelly has taken on Jaws with the same intensity as her male counterparts, proving her skill and tenacity in some of the heaviest conditions.
